Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Ditto, yes, yes and yes. As with all wood I use minimum of three coats, primer, undercoat and gloss, and all old school oil based. Stairs get heavy traffic and will get damage. Typical repainting for the interior is every five years or so, but leave it until it needs redoing. And it is all in the preparation!

I used:

Heavy, then light hand-sanding of stairs.

Seal wood with acrylic floor covering (stops stains - tar etc. - ingrained in wood coming through, which it did after 1st attempt).

Two layers of undercoat in chosen colour.

Two layers of acrylic floor covering to get gloss finish.

All water-based, all quick-ish drying.

Four flights of stairs and hallway took a couple of weeks, first few days of which were hand-sanding.

alice Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> Many thanks for all advice. Any suggestions for

> non gloss finish. Matt or satin.



The way I do it - I?d just use acrylic floor covering which is not glossy ie. Matt/semi-Matt.

I use Ruskins btw, sold at Plough.

alice Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> Yes I?ve used that on sanded floorboards. So it

> goes on over the paint?


In this specific example, I?ve used it as detailed in my process list, above.


ETA: just realised my process list had a typo, fixed and should make sense now.

Good heavens KK, what a thorough job. I'd still go for oil based, maybe I imagine it gives a better finish and is more durable.


If you have old boards they are quite often finished with this black gunk which takes ages to get off with paint stripper, particularly now you can't get methylene chloride anymore. Also carpet tacks often left embedded. Although I don't mind a bit of distressing, and in any case you can't be too precious as you will get knocks on hard used areas like stairs.

I personally like the 'floating' effect of an exposed wooden handrail, always worth investigating what quality of handrail you've got, a lot of period properties used good quality wood e.g. oak, mahogany, for the handrail and cheaper wood for the spindles.

Again personally, I'd avoid a gloss finish, looks too institutional, matt finishes are far more forgiving of blemishes, eggshell is a good compromise.

I'd also be very wary if you intend to paint the treads too unless you intend to have a runner, as the last thing you want is a slippy finish...


9fHXhPBYckFns7sC953po6-768-80.jpg.webp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Discussions

    • What is it that makes Waitrose so special! Admittedly I have shopped a couple of times in the Orpington and Beckenham one - sometimes buying food which I cannot get else where. Their 'basic range' is not bad. Price for price and quality - M & S.
    • Sometimes a shed or other installation has to have written approval from the freeholder i.e. Southwark, Southwark has (or did have) a Leaseholder Association.   Could also come under Anti Social Behaviour Unit.
    • Love Dulwich is great but has a large step in front. We have only been weekdays at Lunch time. Maria's next to Picture House is disabled friendly. Also can reserve table in advance. We did a Sunday lunch catch up with family - there were 8 of us.
    • Hi, Thinking about  going with some friends and was just wondering if folk might like to report back please. Most importantly sound level when busy & is it disabled friendly.  Thinking on a Sunday lunchtime but don’t want a busy busy environment or loud chatter - a couple of friends could not cope. Time can be flexible, if that helps - say 2 ish to avoid above.. Thanks…      
Home
Events
Sign In

Sign In



Or sign in with one of these services

Search
×
    Search In
×
×
  • Create New...