need a bit of advice about going to India in late feb...

[Philby]

I want to go to India, late feb for about 10 days. Never been before. Im a photographer. Varanassi looks like a nice place to shoot. I want to go on my own, find an interesting place to go, not get ripped off, get around unmolested and generally have a great time mooching about taking street photos. If anyone wouldnt mind talking to me a bit about this Id be grateful. Pm me a phone number if you are cool with that.

Ive never been and it seems a bit of a daunting place...

Thanks alot

Philby

[zeban]

Hi Philby, Varanasi was my favourite place in North Central India. It's a very interesting place and great for taking photos.

My experience of India was that I got ripped off everywhere as there are no set prices for anything and it was quite hard to find people interested in just talking to you without wanting to sell you something. I wasn't molested although am half Pakistani so I don't know if that helped. Make sure you you dress modestly as it helps massively although I'm sure you know that.

There was a great coffee shop and boutique that I went to in Varanasi- the first decent coffee I'd had my whole trip as I found the coffee in India tastes like tea! The same place was also a boutique selling handmade things with set prices which made me extremely happy!

I say go for it. Overall I didn't like India. It seems to be abit of a marmite place- you love it or hate it and I know many people that absolutely love it. Varanasi did stop me from hating it though!

[katie1997]

Zeban - your post made me laugh out loud about the tea tasting like coffee and vice versa! I used to work in India and whilst visiting a university, that's exactly what the professor said to me :) You're soooo right that its a love it or hate it type of place.

Philby - I adore India ( am probably very biased).

Varanasi is very full on and India is daunting to the newcomer at the best of times. It can be overwhelming with all the crowds everywhere and its soooooooo noisy (but you get used to it).

Quick tips - change your larger Rupee notes into smaller denominations, Rs 20 and 10 are very handy. You can easily confuse some of the blue Rs 5000 for a blue Rs 1000. These are very handy for tipping everyone here and there. There are certain brands of water that are best to use. A little local language goes a long way and lots of smiles all round. It can also be a very frustrating place, particularly giving directions to auto drivers and getting anywhere on time. Don't try and do too many things in one day. I have hundreds more (will PM) but all in all, a truly fabulous country and people :))

(Read some Mark Tully if you have time...)

[Sue]

I was in Varanasi around that time of year, it was fine (albeit twenty years ago!), not at all daunting. Don't remember it as a place where we were particularly ripped off.

Arrived there quite late at night and seem to remember a scary time being led through dark narrow alleys, but all was well. Stayed in a hotel near the river (ie not in the posh bit) which was fine.

Best time to take photos is very early in the morning by the river, when the ceremonies take place. You can get a boat and take photos from there, it's all very atmospheric.

Only downside of Varanasi was it's hard to buy beer, being a Hindu holy place, and if you find a place which sells it they hide you out of sight :))

However I have to say the only place in India where from memory we didn't get really hassled was Jaisalmer. Oh and Poona, but that was a different trip.

On the whole I didn't like India either, it was quite a disappointment. Nepal was much more chilled. And quite easy to get to from Varanasi if you have a visa and fancy straying over the border.

[Narnia]

I think Philby is a guy zeban but he may well dress modestly anyway. My Mrs has been there many times though probably in too protected an environment to be much use to you Philby. However if you want any health advice I'm sure she would advise you. I've been once to Delhi and got fairly ill so it's good to know how to protect yourself in that department.

PM me if you want to set up a call with my other half. Get the necessary shots too from the Doc.

[Sue]

I never got ill in India, but I did get quite sick in Australia :))

If you are careful (and yes, obviously have the recommended jabs etc before you go) you should be fine.

[Annette Curtain]

Sue Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> I was in Varanasi around that time of year, it was

> fine (albeit twenty years ago!), not at all

> daunting. Don't remember it...

BLA bla bla

> On the whole I didn't like it......

NOTE: Sue also started the unforgettable "Memory" thread in the lounge with this opening gambit

Current Page: 1 of 2

Memory

Posted by: Sue January 19, 11:08PM

I can't remember anything.

Should I be worried?

_______________________________________________

Well, yes I'd be worried.

( she ain't all there, or here for that matter )

Especially when dishing out travel advice.

:)A.

[Narnia]

You do have a point Nettie!

[louisiana]

The one thing to be aware of in Varanasi (and India in general) is that everyone will say 'yes' where in other cultures they might say 'don't know' or 'no' or 'maybe'. I see this as quite a positive thing, but...

When you get into a taxi in Varanasi and give the driver the address and ask him whether he knows where it is, he will always say 'yes'. But he will mean no. To make matters slightly trickier, he will not have any petrol. Your subsequent journey will definitely involve a petrol station and a beaker, almost certainly friends of the driver (to ask them the way), and possibly some godforsaken backstreet that may be less than hospitable, when the driver finally gets lost and abandons you. It may also involve picking up his children (who will invariably be wonderful), and possibly a riot somewhere (when a truck driver in front of you has killed yet another child and the community rebels). Life is cheap in India, unfortunately, and you shouldn't exclude yourself from the equation of possible targets.

But India is a wonderful place full of lovely people and amazing things. So do go, but be prepared for anything (including yes-men on all sides, and the possibility of dacoits if you go cross-country).

You'll have a hard time keeping everyone off your back, however. Those after you are not all charlatans and scroungers. Some are just poor, crippled etc. Around monuments and similar, some are very literate people with extensive knowledge trying to earn a crust. It is sometimes worthwhile paying somebody local to accompany you on your trip, who can explain things and deal with whatever situation on your behalf. This is not at all expensive (though they will of course be taking a cut from every person you deal with - that is the way it works).

[Sue]

Louisiana, I do think you're exaggerating somewhat - are you trying to scare him?!

Varanasi is hardly very big, for a start, so it's unlikely that a driver there would get lost.

Anyway my recollection is that you would more likely get a rickshaw than a taxi there. Though maybe things have changed.

The only time I have ever been "abandoned" when travelling was being chucked off a bus in Jakarta (Java) miles from where I wanted to be :-S

[zeban]

Things have changed a little Sue I think. In Jaisalmer I got hassled a lot. It's very touristy now. Varanasi feels more genuine.

[Sue]

That's a shame about Jaisalmer. Oh well.

[nashoi]

Varanasi is a fantastic place for a photographer to visit, absolutely full of atmosphere. You can also catch an overnight train to Agra from there. The hassle you experience varies tremendously across India, and I remember Varanasi as being one of the easier cities. Louisiana is quite right about the 'yes men', there is just the slightest pause by the waiter/hotel staff/shopkeeper when you ask for something he hasn't got before he says yes and then moments later you hear the sound of a moped being fired up out back.

The only problem I had was that I had failed to pack for the weather in that part of India. Our trip had started on the beaches of Goa, but when we got to Varanasi it was freezing very thick fog. Great for the atmosphere but bloody cold.

[zeban]

Yep I was in Central Northern India end of Jan to end of Feb and it was was exactly like British weather- abit of rain, cloudy, occasionally a bit of sun, a bit chilly etc!

And I definitely agree with the yes men which is very sweet and accomodating but have lots and lots of patience- in fact patience is a virtue in India. I remember getting into the habit of ordering breakfast at a nearby restaurant/hotel cafe,then going back to my hotel room, having a shower, getting ready etc before going back to the restaurant by which time my breakfast was hopefully ready - and that was for a cup of tea and some cornflakes!

[KidKruger]

philby i spent 18 months there and a few years before was a commercial photographer, so i always have a photograpic interest when there. I found India extremely easy to 'find' shots in, composition, colour, texture it's all there in spades. Let me know how you get on, I can maybe show you some shots (wait for it, slides since I used emulsion right up until recently). they may not be the best shots but if you have an eye you may be encouraged by how much material is just waiting there to be caught and stashed on your (I presume) memory card...

as for getting used to the locals etc and their habits, you'll pick it up as you go along, nice people out there and very caring and generous IMO, spend some time on and with them and you'll be taken under their guidance with nothing asked in return.

you'll have a great time !!

[katie1997]

katie1997 Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> Quick tips - change your larger Rupee notes into

> smaller denominations, Rs 20 and 10 are very

> handy. You can easily confuse some of the blue Rs

> 5000 for a blue Rs 1000. These are very handy for

> tipping everyone here and there.

Oops, I am rubbish with numbers, I think its the INR 50 notes that are the same as the blue 500s.

(I'll get my pashmina :-$ )

Also, reading KK's post above (tu) makes me think that people who have lived in India for a considerable length of time (and managed it!) will likely have a very different perspective from someone who has visited for a holiday or shorter visits.

[Alec John Moore]

Boring but maybe essential - have you looked into the visa requirements? I understand they have changed fairly recently and may be more restrictive than before.

[Philby]

Hello everyone,

Goodness. Thankyou. I dropped by wondering if anyone had posted and there has been a most generous response. I shall Pm some of you individually..

Thanks again.

Good old EDF...

[belladonna]

Spent three months there in 92-93, fell in love with the place, though it's certainly not an easy place to travel as a lone female traveller. I went there to do film stills which was great in a place called Matheran outside Mumbai, an old hill station, with a single gauge railway. Fantastic colours, scenes...what's not to like as a photographer?

Well it's awful busy, the hectic streets of the towns and cities, full of cars, bikes, street sellers and beggars, it's very easy to get overwhelmed by the buzz. Make sure you stay somewhere you can chill out, and don't over do it. Also the women often are not keen on being photographed and can get quite upset by instrusive westerners if you don't remember to make contact with people and ask their permission. Remember to put the camera down for a couple of days and just absorb the place...it's too easy to create a wall behind which you just click away without connecting or appreciating the amazing scenes that unfold before you.

It's poor, don't get angry at beggars, but don't make the mistake of trying to give money to everyone.

Udaipur was lovely, I loved Jaiselmer, which was much quieter then, just riding the rails into small towns can show a different side to the tourist sites. Mind your equipment. Drink plenty water, hat for the sun, no salads or ice. I never suffered from Delhi Belly, and was eating delicious omlettes from station vendors and other snacks.

Lucky you.