Painting woodwork with gloss -question pls

[muffins78]

Hi I hope you can help, does anyone know what the story is with white gloss work going yellow? I know there is something put into the gloss now (or not put in), but is there anything else I can use instead?

I bought my flat in 2010 (with everything lovely shiny white), which went yellowish. I redecorated the gloss work last year and its gone yellow again (within months).

Can anyone recommend a gloss paint or any paint (that I can put over the gloss) that will stay white?

At about the same time, I painted my wooden bed with white satinwood (I think) and that is still bright and white. Can I put that on the doors? (I'll be doing this myself, so if there is any alternative that doesn't include sanding, that would be best)!!

Thanks for any help :)

[DJKillaQueen]

Yes satinwood can go on doors. It's not as hard wearing as gloss but it's hard wearing enough and will stay white.

[oilworker]

You can paint gloss on top of gloss but you need to sand the existing gloss work down fisrt to provide a key for it to stick to (otherwise it will just peel off ). The same goes for matt on gloss - sand down first. The best brand of gloss paint is called "Sikens" - more expensive but wull stay bright and white much longer - for this reason professional decorators don't like using it - it lasts too long!!

[UncleBen]

Can't help i'm afraid but i'd double check the satinwood advice.

[oilworker]

Woodwork can be overpainted with any oil-based paint - be it gloss, matt or satin. The key to a good finish is preparation - this means you have to give the woodwork a good rubbing down with aluminium oxide paper (or similar). As far as i am aware there is no substitute for this process for applying any paint on top of gloss. Does anyone know different?

[muffins78]

Thank you all, I appreciate this.

So the sanding down is a must, without wishing to sound thick, you said that you can paint gloss over gloss, but sanding it down first - does this mean to the woodwork itself?

If so, this could be fun/hilarious, I tried woodwork at school and well, lets say, I was slow at the sanding down part :) (thank you for giving me the name of the paper and the brand of paint).. :)

[oilworker]

You don't need to sand down to the bare wood - just enough so that the "shine" is taken off the gloss - after the sanding process the gloss paint should look like a bit likematt - then the subsequent coat of paint will be able to stick to it. To sand down a nornal sized door should take about ten - fifteen minutes of sanding.

[muffins78]

Oh this is great oilworker, thank you, I'll just skim it so, like a good clean - I appreciate all of this. Next weekend, will be busy :)

Thanks again :)

[fl0wer]

If you wash paintwork first with a product called 'manger's sugar soap' it sometimes won't need much sanding. Also you can sand then vacuum clean and then wash the door with sugar soap. This product is not detrimental to the next coat of paint.

I wondered if the yellowing was associated with strong central heating or people smoking or cooking smoky food or if there is pine wood underneath the paint, which never got a coat of primer?

[DJKillaQueen]

A clean with sugar soap and use of an undercoat before applying the coat of gloss on top is all you need. Sanding usually deals with imperfections, like brishes marks, from the old coat and makes for a better finish, and although recommended isn't absolutely necessary if you use an undercoat.

[muffins78]

Hello, thanks for these posts too...

When the original yellowing occurred, we did look at the heating/smoking etc., but it wasn't any of that. And the yellowing has been consistent throughout the flat - so it has to be the paint. On googling it about a month ago, it was to do with some EU regulation and what was put in the gloss paint - brands like Dulux were giving refunds for it (I think from memory)...

The paint work itself on the doors now, is perfect - so if it is a case of sugar soap and an undercoat, that would be vastly easier... I need to try and see how it goes...

Thank you for all your help :)

[Annette Curtain]

In 2010 the regs changed with regards to the VOC (volatile organic compounds) emissions

Subsequently the formulas changed and more natural & organic substances were added to paint, like plant oils etc

These tend to yellow or discolour easier, specially oil based ones in 2010

See here:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/watchdog/2012/03/dulux.html

Things have improved and water based paints have come on massively now too

[fl0wer]

They are much nicer, needn't endure the stink of gloss or polyurethane any more.

Something called silthane meant to be washable is in the fl0w household's "never again" league.

A nice eggshell acrylic stuff is around...think it needs good quality undercoat though as it's rather thin.

[muffins78]

Thanks for all your help today, and I'll write it all down and bring it up to paint shop at the Plough during the week! Was glad to the kitchen finished earlier, busy week or so ahead, trying to get all the rest done! Thanks again :)

[DJKillaQueen]

Good luck with it all muffin :) x

[Annette Curtain]

muffins78 Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> Thanks for all your help today, and I'll write it

> all down and bring it up to paint shop at the

> Plough during the week! Was glad to the kitchen

> finished earlier, busy week or so ahead, trying to

> get all the rest done! Thanks again :)

Make a trip to Whites of Brockley instead, see John in there (he's the Irish guy)

http://www.whitestradepaints.co.uk/about+us

They deal in quality trade paints and they have a way better service that the place above.

Retail paint isn't worth all the effort for the result.