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The native oyster is best during the winter, hence the instruction only to eat oysters when there is an R in month. The most famous are from Whitstable, Colchester and Helford, in season from September to April. Some say the R myth arose from an area where oysters spawn in the summer season, and when spawning they taste fatty, soft and inedible.


Pacific oysters are not as esteemed as natives but turning down a plate of spanking fresh Pacifics is simply misplaced snobbery. They are more elongated, with longer narrower shells, are raised in hatcheries such as the one at Butley and, thank goodness, are in season all year.

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It's also because there are more bacteria in the water during the summer months, so there's a higher risk of getting food poisoning from a summer oyster - it's not necessarily a reflection on the restaurant if you get ill from eating them, although if they're not very fresh or not kept properly refrigerated, obviously the bacteria can multiply through that as well.
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