Ooh I just got back from Sicily yesterday. A four day eating and drinking marathon and i was lucky enough to be with an Itailian who has lots of friends in Palermo. Didn't do much in the way of public transport, but I would definitely not want to drive there - it is totally mental in Palermo. You also have to validate your tickets on the buses. Cefalu is an hour by train from Palermo, and well worth a visit. Must try food pane e panelli - street food, deepfried pieces of chickpea batter, fried in olive oil and served in a fresh roll with a squeeze of lemon juice - AMAZING! Caponata - I was never a fan of the aubergine but they do magical things with it Aubergine rolls - the stuffing is incredible Stuffed calamari - ditto. Arancini - rice balls the size of a tennis ball Sword fish - a speciality Canolli - crisp rolled biscuit filled with sweetened ricotta. must be done daily if possible, they are incredible Cassatella - look like green boobies with a glace cherry as the nipple - yummy How this island is not full of clinically obsese peole I will never know Enjoy!